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Sugar's `empty' calories pile up
Author: By Judy Foreman, Globe Staff
Date: MONDAY, March 1, 1999
Page: C1
Section: Health and Science
Here's
the so-called problem: The kids in the Colorado Springs schools just
aren't drinking enough Coke, or so says John Bushey, an area
superintendent for 13 schools who signs his correspondence, ``The Coke
Dude.''
It seems the Colorado district had been hard up for money for extras
like band competitions and debates. So in 1997, it signed a 10-year
contract by which it would get $8-$11 million from Coca-Cola in return for
giving the soft drink giant exclusive rights to peddle Coke, juices, teas,
other sugary drinks and fancy water in school vending machines.
Coke has similar ``partnerships'' with schools around the country,
including the Burlington, Mass. system and dozens of individual schools in
the Boston area, says Bob Lanz, Coke's vice president for public affairs
for New York and New England.
With sugar consumption by teenagers already in the stratosphere, this
scheme is not exactly popular with nutritionists. Surprisingly, it doesn't
seem all that popular with kids in Colorado Springs, either, because they
haven't held up their end of this sugar-coated deal.
Sales of Coke products have been so sluggish that Bushey wrote to
school officials in September: ``We all need to work together to get next
year's volume up to 70,000 cases.''
He wasn't kidding, as he made plain in an interview. In fact, his
solution is to let kids buy drinks ``throughout the day except for the
half hour before and after lunch'' and to place machines ``where they are
accessible all day.''
Let's say, for argument's sake, that bombarding kids with soda pop and
other sugary drinks makes economic sense for cash-starved schools. But
nutritional sense? Forget it.
Sugar consumption, especially among teens, is ``off the charts,'' says
Michael F. Jacobson, executive director of the Center for Science in the
Public Interest, a health advocacy group in Washington, D.C. The group
lays much of the blame on the soft drinks, or ``liquid candy,'' that teens
are guzzling.
(Sugar-free drinks aren't much better, he adds. Artificial sweeteners
``are used almost exclusively in worthless foods. If you're consuming much
of them, you ought to worry about your overall diet. They aren't making
good foods better, they're making bad foods less bad.''
Twenty years ago, his group says, teens drank almost twice as much milk
as soda. Now they drink twice as much soda as milk. Girls get only 60
percent of the calcium they need to build bones to prevent osteoporosis in
later life. Some data suggest drinking soda instead of milk may also
contribute to breaking bones while they're still teenagers.
The US Department of Agriculture is worried, too, noting that Americans
consume twice as much sugar as desirable. Indeed, many of us now get 16
percent of our calories from sugar, including table sugar and products
like corn syrup that are added to processed foods.
It's not that sugar is a toxin, as some health faddists argue. In and
of itself, it's not bad for you. It isn't even a major risk for diabetes.
But too much sugar can make for health problems, including obesity,
heart disease and tooth decay, said a panel of 21 nutritionists in
December. They called for a National Academy of Sciences study of the
health consequences of sugar consumption.
Metabolically, sugar is a refined carbohydrate, like white bread or
potatoes. And, like them, it can trigger a rapid rise in blood glucose,
which sets off an outpouring of insulin, the hormone that escorts sugar
molecules into cells.
Over time, too much of this cycle can raise blood levels of fatty
substances called triglycerides and lower levels of HDL (good
cholesterol), increasing the risk of heart disease. There's also some
evidence that this carbohydrate-insulin cycle can exhaust the
insulin-producing cells in the pancreas, says Dr. Walter Willett, chairman
of nutrition at the Harvard School of Public Health.
But the main problem with sugar, aside from the calories it packs, is
that ``it squeezes out the good things'' like fruits, vegetables and milk
from the diet, says Dr. George Blackburn, medical director of the Center
for the Study of Nutrition and Medicine at Beth Israel Deaconess Medical
Center. Sugar is just ``empty calories,'' agrees Willett, adding that an
eight-ounce serving of Coke contains about eight teaspoons of sugar.
``If people thought of spooning down eight teaspoons of sugar, they'd
be grossed out,'' he says. ``But drinking makes it virtually invisible,
which means you can take in a lot more calories than you realize.''
And too many calories, regardless of where you get them, leads to
weight gain, unless you exercise off what you take in.
Sugar is also seductive. ``It's not only in things that are sweet,
which we know have sugar, but it's also in processed foods that don't
taste particularly sweet,'' says Larry Lindner, executive editor of the
Tufts University Health & Nutrition Letter. That includes ketchup,
canned beans, barbeque sauce, spaghetti sauce, even cereals that don't
appear to be sweet.
But to focus solely on sugar -- and not on refined carbohydrates in
general -- is to miss the point, nutritionists say, because in some ways,
pure sugar may be less of a problem.
``People have been given the idea they can load up on potatoes and
bagels but not sugar,'' says Willett. In fact, table sugar (sucrose) is
made up of both fructose and glucose. Because fructose does not trigger an
insulin response like glucose, in some ways, ironically, you may be better
off eating pure sugar than starch, in terms of metabolic effects on the
body, he says.
``No matter how you take carbohydrates in, enzymes in the pancreas turn
it all to sugar,'' adds Blackburn. ``What the body sees is sugar. It never
sees a starch.''
What, then, is a body to do?
Remember the basics -- calories do count, and sugar, especially in
liquid candy form, can be an insidious wrecker of healthy diets. Weight
control, no matter what the fad diet books say, still boils down to a
matter of ``calories in, calories out,'' says Karen Chalmers, director of
nutrition services at the Joslin Diabetes Center in Boston.
The bottom line is that you should eat a diet that's roughly half
carbohydrate, including sugar. Within that category, you should try to eat
less of the refined stuff, which has had much of the fiber and many of the
nutrients removed, and more of the whole grain products like brown rice or
whole oats.
And soft drinks? Forget it. If you're thirsty, drink water. (Juices are
okay in small quantities, but they have lots of calories.) If you're
hungry, eat real food.
Sidebar 1.: Substitutes can be risky
If you spend time on line, chances are you've stumbled upon
e-scares about artificial sweeteners, especially aspartame, or NutraSweet,
which is alleged to cause methanol toxicity, headaches, brain cancer,
lupus, and multiple sclerosis.
In truth, methanol toxicity (which can cause blindness) from aspartame
is not a serious concern, says Timothy Maher, director of pharmaceutical
sciences at the Massachusetts College of Pharmacy. In fact, there's more
methanol in a can of tomato juice than a soda sweetened with aspartame,
which was approved by the US Food and Drug Administration for use in some
food products in the early 1970s and for soft drinks in 1983.
``There is some evidence that aspartame may be linked to migraine
headaches,'' he says, but there's no credible evidence of any link between
aspartame and brain tumors, MS, or lupus, although that's largely because
these haven't been studied.
There is a danger that anti-aspartame crusaders often don't talk about,
however, the fact that some people can't metabolize one of the two amino
acids (phenylalanine) in aspartame.
Those are people born with a condition called PKU (phenylketonuria).
Since children with PKU cannot metabolize phenylalanine, they must eat a
special diet to avoid proteins that contain the amino acid, or they run
the risk of becoming mentally retarded and dying young. If these children
consumed aspartame, ``it would really do them in,'' adds Maher.
Thanks to genetic screening at birth, however, most people with PKU
know it. But this test doesn't pick up people -- a few percent of the
population -- who inherit just one defective gene for PKU, not two. This
means you could be at risk for an adverse reaction from aspartame and not
know it.
In addition, some data suggests that schizophrenics who react adversely
to antipsychotic drugs such as Haldol also may not be able to metabolize
aspartame normally. If they consume it, their reaction to the medications,
including involuntary muscle movements, may get worse, says Maher.
In other words, if you're worried about aspartame, don't touch it.
There are other sweeteners on the market, including Acesulfame K and
saccharine, though they're controversial, too, according to the Center for
Science in the Public Interest.
On the other hand, the health advocacy group says, the newest
sweetener, Sucralose, approved by the FDA in July, does appear safe.
Even so, the take-home message, as Maher puts it, is ``I'd use sugar.''
In moderation, of course.
Sidebar: By the spoonful
There is plenty of sugar in many common processed foods. A
single teaspoon of sugar weighs about five grams.
Sources of sugar Serving size Sugar in grams
Pepsi 12 fl. oz. 41
Coke Classic 12 fl. oz. 39
Hershey's milk chocolate bar 1.6 oz. 22
Kellogg's Fruit Loops 1 cup 15
Nabisco Double Stuf Oreos 2 cookies 13
Dannon French Vanilla Lowfat Yogurt 1 cup 51
with Raspberries
Dannon Premium Plain Lowfat Yogurt 1 cup 16
Ocean Spray Jellied Cranberry Sauce 1/4 cup 26
Mott's Apple Sauce 1/2 cup 23
Mott's Natural (unsweetened) Apple Sauce 1/2 cup 12
HI-C Orange Drink 8 fl. oz. 31
Tropicana Pure Premium Orange Juice 8 fl. oz. 22
Whole orange 5 oz. 12
General Mills Almond Oatmeal Crisp 1 cup 16
Kellogg's Corn Flakes 1 cup 2
Prego Pasta Sauce (Traditional) 1/2 cup 15
Campbell's Old Fashioned Beans 1/2 cup 14
Campbell's Home Cookin' Tomato Garden Soup 1 cup 12
SOURCE: Tufts University Health and Nutrition Letter.
Globe staff chart
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